They’re ready to consume out of hand, in salads or sandwiches, or even as a smoothie ingredient. If needed, wash them in plain water and let them air dry, or spin them in a salad spinner. You may luck into finding snap pea starts at a local nursery, but remember these legumes have shallow roots and do not always survive transplanting. Apply two inches of grass clippings, straw, or shredded newspaper when plants are six inches tall.Space seeds five inches apart at planting time and don’t thin them later.For vining varieties, place netting, tomato cages, or other light supports when you sow.Pull and destroy all weeds ahead of planting.You can learn ways to troubleshoot and prevent these issues in our guide to growing snow peas. Never touch the peas when the vines are wet, as this may encourage the spread of pathogens.Īs for fertilizing, pruning, or thinning, well – you won’t need to do any of that!īut you will need to watch out for a few pests, like rabbits, deer, and aphids.Īnd certain diseases can present a problem, with the top threats coming from powdery mildew and bacterial wilt in most areas. Make sure the soil is kept moist but not soggy, providing supplemental water at the soil surface when rain doesn’t provide about an inch per week. When the plants are a few inches tall, place a two-inch layer of pine straw, grass clippings, or shredded newspaper around them to help maintain moisture and suppress weeds. Once the seeds have germinated or you’ve transplanted your starts, the necessary work is minimal for the rest of the season.
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You’ll want to prepare an optimal garden site, one with full sun, well-draining soil worked down to at least six inches, and a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Most of the work of growing snap peas occurs before you sow the first seed. That’s it! If you get a late freeze and they never sprout, or germination rates are low for some other reason, sow more seeds and they’ll quickly catch up. Water them in thoroughly and keep them moist but not soggy until they germinate. In my raised beds, these seeds tend to plump up and move to the surface after spring rain, so I usually step on the soil covering my sown seeds to anchor them firmly. Sow the seeds about an inch deep and three inches apart if you’re growing a vining type, or five inches apart if you’ve selected a shorter, shrubby variety that will reach 18 to 30 inches tall. Some folks soak the seeds the night before, but I have been skipping that step for several years now, and my peas still seem to germinate just as quickly. It’s available in containers ranging from a quarter-ounce to five pounds. One desirable option is the Cover Crop Inoculant for Pea, Vetch, Bean, and Lentils sold by True Leaf Market. If you’re in a situation where the weather moves so quickly from light freezes to temperatures above 65☏ that you don’t have the requisite 50 to 75 days to sow and harvest these legumes, you may want to start seeds indoors in biodegradable containers you can plant out after you harden off the seedlings. sativum! Propagationĭo you have a particularly short snap pea growing season? Want to give it a try? These tips will help you succeed in growing this variety of P. I think you’ll find that these tasty pods are well worth the space in your garden, and they may even convince the vegetable haters at the house to snack on “rabbit food.” That’s one of their few limitations, though. Like all peas, sugar snaps are best grown in the chill of spring or early fall and will not produce a decent harvest once temperatures exceed about 65☏. He’d hoped to create a straighter, more commercially viable snow pea by cross-breeding certain types with traditional English peas, but instead came away with a plant that produced juicy, round, edible pods best eaten fresh. While evidence of peas has appeared in archeological digs dating back to 6,000 BCE, this particular type was introduced by breeder Calvin Lamborn much more recently, in 1979. They are super new compared to most garden vegetable favorites.
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